Youre most likely to encounter wheat in a gourmand (edible) or Ambre fragrance though sometimes, used sparingly, its used as a modifier: an ingredient added to make something smell truly unique, rather than another me-too scent. Its no surprise that freesias are favourite flowers, for many of us: these delicate, multi-coloured flowers smell so radiantly sweet and airy, with an almost nose-tingling freshness and a hint of citrus in there somewhere, too. And what is it? As it cures in saltwater it becomes gray, hence the name ambergris or gray amber. 5 Adding an ethereal veil of softly charming fresh-airiness to a fragrance, we invite you to explore this so-pretty ingredient in your next perfume Amouage Blossom Love It produces an essential oil thats reminiscent of jasmine, though a little woodier, a touch spicier and more herbal. Like quite a few flowers, daisys used more for conjuring up an image in a perfume than for the actual smell. An aromatic chemical that adds a sea breeze or marine-type note to fragrances, calone is a powder that is 100 percent man-made. Nina Ricci LAir du Temps Every evening we had to brush them, polish them. Katy Perry Meow Emporio Armani Lei Mariah Carey M (Today, a synthetic coumarin is widely used.) Hugo Boss Femme Guerlain Shalimar Illamasqua Freak Fragonard Cerisier en Fleurs Fruity ingredient derived from orange and pineapple. Patchouli, black tea and tobacco can also conjure up that old library/leather-jacket sensuality. Theres an entire book dedicated to the story of ambergris:Floating Gold. By Metro.Style March 10 2023, 12:49 PM. LOccitane de ProvenceDlice des Fleurs Frederic Malle Lipstick Rose Serge LutensL`Eau Serge Lutens (And around the time of the 16th Century, not a few men could apparently be found ripping out rosemary bushes to show that they, not their wives, were boss.). And the difference shouldnt surprise us: pink pepper comes from the Brazilian pepper tree and the Peruvian pepper tree (relatives of mangoes and cashews), not the Piper nigrum plant which provides the spice we scrunch onto our food. Amber as a perfume ingredient first made its debut in the late 1800s, with the invention of synthetic vanilla (vanillin); nowadays, its so widely used in ambre-style perfumes that its given rise to a whole category (Amber ambre). Many of the ingredients in perfumes today may seem familiar, while others not so much. But when vanilla is added to food or fragrance, naturally-present vanillin (and other vanilloids, which well talk about in a moment) work to hold open our vanilloid receptors, slowing down this wiping process which in turn gives us more time to perceive, experience and enjoy both scents and flavours. Chanel Les Exclusifs 31 Rue Cambon Florentine iris ticks perfumers boxes, too. Chopard Wish Pure It might be from birch tar (which has a leathery smokiness), or juniper, aldehydes or other synthetics, designed to give a skin-like scent. Geraniums used in colognes, herbal scents, florals and chypre fragrances. Over 4,00 chemicals are used in today's fragrances. (Its also known as copahu balm.) Chanel Gardnia (Close your eyes, bite a blueberry open and inhale before popping one in your mouth, next time.). Fragonard Fragonard "Because they are so long-lasting, musk is often the note that lingers on the skin after all the other notes have disappeared.". And its controversial: the original musk came from a sex gland secretion from a specific a species of deer, the Tibetan musk deer, which became endangered - though since 1979 this creature has happily now protected by CITES (the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora). When you read the note incense in a fragrance, if often means frankincense. (Strangely, the flower itself is scent-less.). The very first leather scent, so far as records show, was worn by King George III: Creeds Royal English Leather. International Flavors & Fragrances, who trademarked Iso E Super, describe it as a smooth, woody, amber note, with a velvet-like sensation. It smells like skin itself. Guerlain Eau de Cologne Impriale Dolce & Gabbana LEau The One Well, recently, the third most abundant metal on earth has made an appearance mostly in mens perfumery, so far to add a cooling, metal edge, for instance in the Blood Concept fragrances, but also Creeds Acier Aluminium, which was inspired (so they put it) by the chain mail worn by medieval knights. Ethyl maltol Dried fruit scent with a caramelized sugary scent. Creed Jasmal The fields to produce this beautiful rose near Grasse are limited therefore the quantity available is quite low making it yield a high price.". Diane von Furstenburg Diane Little darling. A perfect ingredient to blend with patchouli and spices. Lanvin Arpge Closer to home, this annual (a member of the mint family) grows up to three ft./almost a metre high, and the oils derived from the paper-thin leaves leaves. Because its feels like a glorious smell. Este Lauder Sensuous Noir Clive Christian X for Women This synthetic mixture gave off an almond smell and was often used to scent soaps. The leaves and stems can be steam-distilled to produce oils, then, with quite different characters depending on the variety. Elizabeth Arden Green Tea (And weve adopted it ourselves.) Ormonde JayneFrangipani. ), while others describe it as creamy, musky or labdanum-like. The blood refers to the deep crimson flesh of this delicious Citrus sinensis orange, which flourishes in Italy. well-ventilated work area Basic ingredients To make this DIY soap with coconut and olive oils, you'll need: 20 oz. The distinct smell can be found both synthetically and in natural sources such as from the Tonka bean tree, vanilla grass and sweet clover. Benzoin gives body to many perfumes (its especially widely-used in ambres) and is sweetly seductive. Citral is pure freshness, and used for that effect. But references also exist, indicating the name comes from the Turkish word beg-armudi which translates as prince's pear or prince of pears, Bergamot is commercially grown in southern Calabria in southern Italy, where more than 80% of the essential oil is produced by zesting the rind. ', Narcissus has been exciting perfumers for millennia. Nina Ricci Premier Jour And it's "od. The first is Jasminun grandiflorum, which translates as big-flowered jasmine; Chanel have their own fields of this in Grasse, and you can read about the harvest and maceration process here - and this is sometimes just referred to, then, as Grasse jasmine, because it grows so well there. 5 "Sandalwood is an extraordinary wood with a deliciously creamy, milky scent, almost buttery, with the strength of a vertical and dense wood," says Michalon-Bertier. Say papyrus and you probably think of an ancient form of paper, crafted from this member of the sedge (grass) family as an alternative to using wood (its botanical name is Cyperus papyrus). Most full perfumes are made of about 10-20% perfume oils dissolved in alcohol and a trace of water. A gum resin from a tree found in Arabia and Eastern Africa and also known as olibanum, frankincense is one of the oldest materials used for fragrance in recorded history. Maison Francis Kurkdjian la rose Miller Harris Le Pamplemousse Relics from the burning of incense, dating back thousands of years, have been uncovered by archaeologists. Dior has developed exclusive partnerships with carefully selected producers all over the world so that Franois Demachy can always work with the world's very best materials. Certainly a note that makes our heart beat a little faster, when we smell it. Orange blossom absolute is richer, sweeter, headier there are hints of that other white flower, jasmine, about it (and if you look at its chemical make-up, there are similar aroma compounds in both). Versace Versace. (Dont worry: we wont test you.) Neroli is a citrus oil distilled from the blossoms of either the sweet or bitter orange tree. Drops may seem easier, but it's very hard to get the same amount of ingredient in every drop. Floral scents are most often used in women's fragrances, although they are occasionally used in men's as well. Sensual, for sure, but again, with a more delicate touch. Thats an evocative name for a fragrance ingredient, if ever we heard one. As one of the oldest ingredients found in perfumery, it has been extremely popular throughout the decades," says Gamba. Juicy Couture Juicy Couture Do smell deep, though, and see if you can detect intrigue beneath the soft surface. The main distinction between the iterations you see today - eau de cologne (EDC), eau de toilette (EDT), eau de parfum (EDP) and parfum, contain different amounts of essential oils. And then theres orange itself (sometimes referred to as sweet orange, to distinguish it from the bitter, marmalade variety.). The rise (and rise) of fruity scents has given a new lease of life to this fruit, once reserved for the pudding course and jam-making. Kylie Minogue Music Box Dior Miss Dior "There's no household in Mexico where tuberose sprigs aren't set up in vases, perfuming the whole atmosphere like there's no tomorrow. But flax has also been used in perfumery as long ago as Egyptian times, as a base note mildly nutty in character. It can add sweet, sexy, smoky and mysterious nuances to a fragrance, and works gorgeously alongside rich florals and Ambre spices, giving hints of caramel or whiskey. Chanel Coco Mademoiselle THOO (The House of Oud) Wonderly Illamasqua Freak Extrait de Parfum, A wonderful name for a glorious gum resin ingredient thats smokey and soft, luminous and sensual all at once. (Those seeds are also chewed, in countries like Pakistan, India and Bangladesh, to freshen the breath.). Frederic Malle Carnal Flower Cartier Eau de Cartier Juicy Couture Viva la Juicy It has fruity undertones (peachy, pear-y, banana-y, apple-y), but complements white flowers wonderfully. Frederic Malle Cologne Bigarade ', Britney Spears Circus Fantasy In fact, there are two variietes of cardamom: earthy, smoky black cardamom and the fresher, almost minty, eucalyptus-y green cardamom. Givenchy Ysatis Byredo Pulp (Beware, though: neat eucalyptus oil should be kept away from babies and small children, and avoided by those who suffer from asthma. Although if you have trouble smelling musk, youre not alone: anosmia to some - or all - musk ingredients is actually pretty common, Body Shop White Musk Olfactive Studio Still Life Histoire de Parfums 1889 Moulin Rouge Its historys a bit blurry were lemons first grown in Southern India, or Burma, or China? During the Black Death in Europe, it was believed that carrying a ball of ambergris could prevent plague. Linum usitatissimum): it gives us both linen and linseed (highly nutritious, and also terrific as an oil applied to wooden furniture to keep the elements at bay). Narciso Rodriguez Essence (Although some gifted natural perfumers manage recreate the smell of honeysuckle through clever alchemy of other naturals) Depending on the other notes used, it can enhance a touch of aniseed, blend romantically with other white florals orange blossom and jasmine or add a fresh green note, GoutalParis Eau de Camille Herms Un Jardin Sur Le Nil Michael Kors Michael Kors Its a fantasy note, of course: as perfumer Christine Nagel explains, 'Sugar doesn't exist in perfumery - but sugary facets can be found in synthetic notes called maltol and ethyl maltol'; that sweet and caramel tone is very much used in perfumer, these days. Of all the fragrance ingredients out there, lavenders probably the most widely recognised (even if blindfolded) for its soothing, calming aromatic qualities. In rituals, sandalwood oil may be applied to the forehead, the temples, or rubbed between the eyebrows. So long as the lily flowers you buy are indeed fragrant, theyll pump their sweetness into the air without fading for a couple of weeks at a time, Cacharel Anas Anas Theres a great article on angels trumpet on the perfume website Fragrantica, if you click here. Its rare, and seriously expensive, and even endangered: as its become more popular, high-quality oud is becoming hard to source. Indole is sexy, powerful, intense va-va-voom, in a bottle. Dior Poison Its collected from the stems in small drops (tears). Unique in perfumery for its fruity and animalic facets, Osmanthus is known for having honey and apricot notes and lending a velvety touch to a composition," says Reilly. Illolahia says that ambergris is typically used as a fixative in perfumery, and has a subtle but long-lasting odor. Floris Lily of the Valley But papyruss history isnt just long, though: its fragrant. 5 its airy overture: it tethers the creation). The galbanum used in No. (Plus the fougre family, which is mostly mens scents. Jimmy Choo Eau de Toilette ChloEau de Parfum Intense But in perfumery, I love it for its multitude of facets. Lemons and flowers are a perfect marriage, in perfumery. There truly is an oudh for all tastes, now! Although it may come near the end of a lotion's ingredient list, fragrance is commonly added. Dior Addict Justin Bieber Girlfriend Max Mara Le Parfum Le Labo Perfume Neroli 36 Unpick the chemical structure of this plant and youll find its incredibly rich in an aroma compound called eugenol - so quite often, what you smell in a perfume hasnt come from a plant at all, but has been synthesised. A gum resin that is produced from a bush found in Arabia and Eastern Africa. Acacia honey: the variations are almost limitless, sometimes woody, flowery, herbal or even tobacco-y. Gardeners cultivate these widely, albeit most successfully inside fruit cages because birds, as well as humans, just love the perfectly-ripened fruit The distilled absolute of the blackcurrant buds and leaves is known as bourgeons de cassis (say it boor-shon da cassee): a light, fruity, woody note with a slightly animalic edge. Creed Vetiver PS A relative of vetiver, Vetiveria nigritina, is also found in the Saharan areas of Africa, and is used to perfume clothes and fabrics but it doesnt make its way into the perfumes we wear. The key aroma compound in sweet orange oil, meanwhile, is something called d-limonene and its also a sensitiser for some people, meaning it has to be listed (albeit in the teensiest writing) on labels. Miller Harris Couer dEt Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gio Its spicy, aromatic and surprisingly leathery, in a perfume. (In fact, if youve ever parked your car under a linden tree in full flower, it does just that, dropping sticky, furry and fiendishly difficult-to- remove syrup onto the paintwork). LArtisan Parfumeur Mimosa Pour Moi Theyre incredibly bitter on the tongue, used to flavour vermouth and absinthe (if youre a Martini fan, youll get the connection instantly). Este Lauder Sensuous The odor profile of this multifaceted material includes sweet fresh hay notes along with blond tobacco and soft, creamy nut-like nuances," says perfumer Gwen Gonzalez. But if youve ever received (or even grown) one of these bulbs (generally at Christmas), youll know what the name means: this trumpet-shaped flower really blooms when the foliage has died down. Balmain Ivoire A woody evergreen, rosemary has super-fragrant needle-like leaves, and white, purple, blue or pink flowers, depending on the variety. Yves Saint Laurent Opium. Poets Narcissus, or Narcissus poeticus) is native to Europe, and growers cultivate it in the Netherlands and the Grasse area of France, extracting an oil which smells like a blend of jasmine and hyacinth. You cant shake a real cocktail into a scent, of course so the drink has been conjured up synthetically as a fantasy fragrance ingredient to give a sense of sparkling, crisp peachiness. I had to see what it was like, then I fell totally in love with it. Carolina Herrera 212 VIP When you see opium listed as a fragrance note, it implies something mischievous and mysterious about the perfume itself. Its not that type of rosewood which perfumers use, with its floral, slightly rose-like odour: thats from the Aniba rosaeodora tree, better known as Brazilian rosewood. Its burned today in Catholic churches and Anglican high church ceremonies and perhaps as a result, its a love-it-or-hate-it ingredient, depending on whether you were forced to sit through endless sermons and hymns on Sundays. 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